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A Guide to Travelling in Ha Giang Province, Northern Vietnam

Most people who travel to northwest Vietnam opt for the comforts and commercialisation of Sapa, while the much better looking Ha Giang Province gets almost entirely overlooked. I guess some people aren’t so fussy when it comes to mountain towns. Not me though. I preferred Ha Giang Province — the scenery is incredible, the locals are genuinely friendly and I never once heard “You buy from me!!”. That demand (it’s never phrased as a question) is rampant in Sapa — so if you’re sick of the hard sale and want to see a special region of Vietnam, make your way to Ha Giang Province.

Lao Cai to Ha Giang City

From Sapa I took a tour to Bac Ha Market which eventually dropped me off in Lao Cai. This small city is only a few kilometres from the border and you’ll pass through if you’re heading to China (or Sapa) by train. I stayed in a cheap hotel for a night and prepared myself for a 6.30 am departure to Ha Giang City. I woke up at 5.30 am and it was freezing. There was also a game of cricket just asking to be streamed on my laptop. Those two things convinced me to take the midday bus instead. I caught the bus on the street heading down from the train station (you’ll see a board with Ha Giang written on it). It left at around 12.30 (120,000 VND) and took around six hours. It was a bitterly cold journey — bring warm clothes if you’re travelling during winter.

Ha Giang City

I arrived at around 7 pm and quickly found a guesthouse for the night. If you’re looking to do the same, turn right as you exit the bus station and you’ll see a place that rents motorcycles. Knock on the door and say you need a room — they have two rooms and they only charged 100,000 VND a night. It’s about a minute away from the bus station which makes it the perfect place to stay. It used to be the case that you had to buy a permit to visit this region in Ha Giang City. You still need the permit but it’s possible to get it in Dong Van (just ask at the hotel you decide to stay at) meaning you don’t need to spend much time in Ha Giang City. The permit costs 220,000 VND.

Ha Giang to Dong Van

As soon as I arrived in Ha Giang I asked the guy in the bus station ticket office what times the buses left. He told me the first one was at 5.30 am, so I got up at a ridiculous (and cold) hour and stumbled to the bus station. He then told me the bus to Dong Van didn’t leave from the bus station told us (me and a Korean guy) to take a taxi and then hop on a bus to My Linh, where we would have to change to a bus to Dong Van. I’m pretty sure Dong Van bound buses do leave from the bus station so we were either conned, missed the 5.30 am bus (we were there around 5.20am) or there was a massive misunderstanding. In the end the convoluted procedure cost us about $2 extra and maybe 30 minutes, which is hardly something to get too annoyed over. The bus to My Linh cost 80,000 VND and My Linh to Dong Van was 50,000 VND. The road weaved through some beautiful scenery but the low clouds hid most of it. The buses, including the one from Lao Cai to Ha Giang, were cold, crowded and uncomfortable. You’re also likely to be the only tourist onboard — it’s a nice change from the open tour buses that make their way between Saigon and Hanoi.

road-ha-giang-dong-van

Dong Van

This rough round the edges town surrounded by rocky karst mountains is the best place to base yourself in Ha Giang Province. There are lots of hotels, a few decent, local restaurants and world class hiking close to town. There is also a Sunday market where the local hill tribe folk go to sell their products. I wasn’t there on a Sunday so I missed it, I’ve heard good things though. I found the people in Dong Van (and Ha Giang Province in general) to be incredibly friendly. Old men offer cigarettes, tobacco bongs and super strong rice wine. Kids wave, smile and try out the five or six English words they know. Old, colorfully dressed Hmong women shoot genuine smiles while hauling heavy goods on their backs along hilly trails. The people on Vietnam’s tourist trail have a bad reputation and lead many to claim that this country is home to the most unfriendly people in Southeast Asia. I used to think that as well, but then I visited Ha Giang Province.

water-buffalo-dong-vandong-van-town

Hiking near Dong Van

I wrote a full post about the hike that I did just outside of Dong Van, so I won’t go into too much detail here. I will say that it was one of the best short hikes that I’ve been on in Southeast Asia. The people, the scenery and the fact that I was the only tourist out on the trails that day combined to make it a rare and special experience.

FURHTER READING: Hiking in Dong Van: A Peaceful Walk through the Countryside

karst-plateau-geo-park-dong-vanrural-path-dong-van-vietnam

The Ma Pi Leng Pass

This 22 km stretch of road connecting Dong Van and Meo Vac is a dream to drive down. It winds its way past shapely karst mountains, through tiny villages and allows for some outstanding views of the green Vietnamese countryside. I joined with another tourist to hire a car to see the Ma Pi Leng Pass (as well as Sa Phin) which cost us 800,000 VND, but it’s also possible to hire a motorbike, a xe om (motorbike taxi) or walk.

FURTHER READING: Dong Van to Meo Vac along the Ma Pi Leng Pass

ma-pi-leng-passdong-van-karst-plateau

Meo Vac

I didn’t spend long in Meo Vac but it seemed like a nice little town — try and stay for a night or two if you have the time. The town is (of course) surrounded by great scenery and I’m sure there are some good hikes in the area.

me-vac-ha-giang

Sa Phin

I joined forces with the aforementioned Korean tourist to hire a car and driver to take us along the Ma Pi Leng Pass and then to Sa Phin, another small town close to Dong Van. The clouds had come back in full force by the time we reached Sa Phin but the drive was predictably scenic up until then. The main site in Sa Phin is an old house built well over a hundred years ago. The mist outside was thick and I was the only one looking through the massive, mysterious old building. It sounds like a horror movie in the making… I was just lucky that I wasn’t accompanied by some good looking young college students from America or I might not have made it out alive. A small gang of children had gathered outside, and after playing with them for a while we headed back through the mist towards Dong Van.

ha-giang-sa-phin-sceneryvuong-family-mansion-sa-phinold-house-sa-phin

Ha Giang to Hanoi

I caught a bus around lunchtime from Dong Van to Ha Giang, which arrived at 6 pm. I then booked a ticket on a night bus from Ha Giang to Hanoi. It cost 200,000 VND and left at around 8.30 pm, arriving at the Gia Lam bus station in Hanoi at 4 am (I slept on the bus until 6 am though).

Ha Giang Province turned out to be one of my favourite places in Vietnam. A lot of people hire motorbikes to travel around this region but it’s easy (and still an adventure) to do it on public transport. If you’re travelling in Vietnam and the country still hasn’t completely won you over, head straight for Ha Giang Province; it won’t disappoint.

Are you planning a trip to Vietnam? Did I convince you to visit Ha Giang Province? Let me know in the comments below.

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Jon Algie

A travel blogger from New Zealand who hates talking about himself in the third person and has no imagination when it comes to naming websites.
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18 Comments

  1. Dorit
    April 28, 2017 at 11:48 pm — Reply

    Dear jon, my doghter and i are planing going to ha gian . I have offer from company name ethnic travel vietnam. Do you know this company? I couldnt find any recomendations..thank

    • April 29, 2017 at 5:14 am — Reply

      Hi, nope never heard of them. You don’t really need to do it with a tour company though — just get there on the bus and hire a driver in Dong Van. Or you could probably hire a driver for the whole trip. It’s easier to sort this kind of thing out in Hanoi rather than online, should be cheaper. Can I ask how much they quoted for the trip and how long it is for?

  2. Danielle Said
    June 19, 2017 at 7:20 pm — Reply

    Hey Jon, just stumbled across this post when researching Sapa for December this year. Great read and yes I think I’m convinced to now also visit Ha Gian – looks like the authentic north Vietnamese experience I’m looking for. I’m a single female traveller who’s done a bit of travelling around SEA (Thailand, Cambodia, Indonesia, South Vietnam) do you think hiring a motorbike and driver (I dont ride motorbikes) to see Ha Gian is a good way to do it? I’d love to get out there and be in the midst of it – stop off into all the little local towns along the way, do you think this is safe for a solo traveller? Do you think I’ll be able to find someone in Sapa to come along. It would be more fun with someone else but not banking on it and cool for this part of the trip to be solo just want to 1. Make sure it’s safe and 2. Make sure I’ll get the kind of experience I’m after. Any advice appreciated thanks!!

    • June 30, 2017 at 10:38 am — Reply

      Hey Danielle, travelling by motorbike would definitely be the best way. It was a bit frustrating not being able to stop when I wanted to on the bus, still a great trip though. You might be able to find some people to join you in Sapa or Hanoi, it’s not exactly high season but there are still plenty of tourists around. Just show them some photos of Ha Giang and I’m sure they’ll be easily convinced! It seemed like a very safe place to me (apart from maybe the roads) but I can understand wanting to travel with other people, especially if you aren’t 100 % confident on a bike.

  3. Mary
    August 9, 2017 at 5:49 am — Reply

    Hi, Jon! I’m planning on travelling to Vietnam soon and I really want to go to Ha Giang province like what you just did. But I’m worried about the cost and transportation when going there. I really don’t know how to drive a motorcycle. Can we hire a driver for that? Are they any from of transpo other than the motorcycles that we can rent when we’re up there?

    • November 2, 2017 at 8:49 am — Reply

      Hey Mary, sorry for the late reply. You can hire a car / driver, or probably a motorcycle / driver. Car would definitely be more comfortable though! The cost, in terms of food, hotels etc is very cheap, so you might be able to splash out a bit more on transport. Let me know how the trip goes.

  4. Carol
    September 1, 2017 at 5:30 pm — Reply

    Hi Jon,

    Very informative post on Ha Giang. I’ll be visiting Hanoi for a week and currently have Halong Bay, Sapa and Ha Giang in my itinerary. Do you think I’ll be able to cover all 3 places in a week or should I focus on 2 places to explore the places to the fullest?

    Thanks for your advice in advance!

    Cheers,
    Carol

    • November 2, 2017 at 8:34 am — Reply

      Hi Carol, sorry for the late reply. Out of the three I’d skip Sapa. Halong Bay can be done in a couple of days and you can spend a few days in Ha Giang, would be a lot more relaxing than trying to fit it all in!

  5. Danielle
    March 10, 2018 at 3:26 am — Reply

    Hi Jon,
    Really enjoying reading your post and gaining tips for my upcoming travels to Vietnam. I will be in Hanoi and was looking to go to Sapa but after reading this I think I will skip Sapa and go to Ha Giang, can you take the night bus directly from Hanoi?

    Thanks
    Danielle

    • March 12, 2018 at 8:55 am — Reply

      Hey Danielle, going to Ha Giang is definitely a good idea. I didn’t go from Hanoi but I assume there is an overnight bus going from there to Ha Giang City (there is definitely one in the other direction). If not there’ll be a day one, but I assume there is a night one. Enjoy the trip — let me / other readers know how it goes if possible!

  6. Danielle
    March 13, 2018 at 8:27 pm — Reply

    Thanks, I just looked into it and it is possible to get a night bus from Hanoi. How many days would you recommend, I was thinking 3/4 but not sure if this would feel rushed.

    • March 14, 2018 at 6:10 am — Reply

      It should be enough, especially if you hire a car / driver for half a day or so. You could always spend longer though, there is heaps more to see there.

  7. April 20, 2018 at 5:31 pm — Reply

    Hey!

    I have a spur of the moment; 1 week vacation in NW Vietnam and was wondering what the best route would be from Hanoi through Ha Giang via local transit (or automatic scooter??)

    As a former 4yr nomad, Im not into rushing but would like to experience the “best of” – I’m captivated by the idea of going to Ha Giang but not sure which places are the best to go too.

    Any help would be appreciated!!

    Thanks!

    • May 4, 2018 at 7:59 pm — Reply

      Hey Shannon, Dong Van is great and so is the pass — there’s so much to see though and you’ll be able to see a lot more with a bike. The whole area has awesome scenery so you can’t really go wrong. Let me know how the trip goes!

  8. Jan Earley
    May 24, 2018 at 5:45 pm — Reply

    Hi Jon,
    What time of year did you go to Ha Giang? I am planning a trip in June, but I have been reading it’s dangerous to travel the roads during this month. Can you give me any feedback on this? Thanks!
    Jan

    • May 28, 2018 at 12:44 am — Reply

      Hey Jan, I was there in winter (January from memory), so I’m not entirely sure about June. It’s summer but maybe it’s also rainy season?

  9. Stanley
    May 25, 2018 at 4:04 pm — Reply

    Hi Jon,

    Thank you for your informative website.

    I have been to Sa Pa 5 or 6 times but never been to Hac Ba, Ha Giang or Dong Van. I read your Dong Van day hike but how about Ha Giang ? Are there much to see there ? How is it compared to Sa Pa ?

    Do you know if there is any direct bus between Hac Ba and Ha Huang ?

    I am planning a trip to Ha Giang(by bus and can’t ride a bike) but undecided whether to do it in November or March. In your opinion, how will the rice fields be and scenery difference between this 2 months ?
    Do you know what other bus times are there from Ha Giang to Dong Van ? One blog mentioned it’s hourly but I can’t find any more information on it.

    Thank you.

    • May 28, 2018 at 12:39 am — Reply

      Hey Stanley, the scenery is great all over this region but with a bike you’re a bit limited in what you can see. I’m not entirely sure about the buses, I can’t imagine them being hourly though (although they could well be). I don’t think there will be too much difference between November and March, both will still be cold I’d say!

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